cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!

hello,
i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it came new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it up plus there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it. I shook the Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole different story. I don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm doing. It came with a cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what. anyone who has any knowledge on basic sword cleaning kits and would like to give me a short explanation of how it all works please do so.
thanks a bundle,
mark




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mark
To clean a blade, first strip the blade of all fittings including the
habaki. The cleaning kit should contain a "powder puffer", probably on a
stick. This is called uchiko and is basically for removing oil. If the blade
is heavilly coated, take a soft cloth or tissue and remove the excess by
wiping, from the habaki area to the kissaki in one stroke. Do not make a
backwards and forwards type of motion. When most of the oil is off, tap out
the uichiko liberally onto the blade, including the mune or back edge. With
a fresh piece of cloth or paper (nugui-game may be supplied in your cleaning
kit in which case it will need crumpling up to soften it) wipe from habaki
area to kissaki, again using one stroke. Eventually this should remove all
the oil although several applications may be necessary. After studying the
now clean blade you may wish to re-oil the blade with the choji-abura that
should be supplied in the cleaning kit.
As the uichiko comes in many grades and qualities and is slightly abraisive,
be sure not to grip the blade too tightly when wiping it and always use the
single stroke method to avoid unsightly scratches. Do not apply any paper or
cloth that has touched the nakago to the rest of the blade as you may
introduce grit onto the polished surface. Never clean the nakago.
I would emphasise that this is how to use a cleaning kit on a real Japanese
sword. I have no knowledge of Paul Chen swords but assume the same method
applies.You should always clean the sword in this way after use in Iai-do as
contact with your hands will quickly rust if not cleaned. Of course, this
does not apply to stainless steel blades.
It is a matter of personal taste as to whether a blade is kept permanently
oiled or dry. Personnely, in the UK where there is generally a moderate
climate I prefer to keep my swords dry although, I have started oiling them
for the summer months in recent years. I know that many derive great
pleasure from cleaning and oiling their swords in an almost ritualistic way.
The smell of the choji-abura (clove oil) is quite pleasant but avoid getting
into any open wounds, scratches etc as it may have an unpleasant reaction.
I hope this is of some interest.
Regards
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "mark kd" <depos42300@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 2:51 AM
Subject: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!


> hello,
> i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it came
new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it up plus
there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it. I shook the
Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole different story. I
don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm doing. It came with a
cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what. anyone who has any knowledge
on basic sword cleaning kits and would like to give me a short explanation
of how it all works please do so.
> thanks a bundle,
> mark
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Join the 2006 Samurai Fiction contest:
> http://www.samurai-archives.com/writcon2.html
>
> Samurai Archives: http://www.samurai-archives.com
> Samurai Archives store: http://www.cafeshops.com/samuraiarchives
> ---
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>

Hi Mark. You don't quote if the blade has Bohi. If your blade has Bohi,
and as it's a working blade that'll see a lot of cleaning, is better to
polish inside the Bohi (ONLY this part, inside the Bohi) *from tip to
Nakago* , the reverse as the rest of the blade, because if you polish
the correct way Hi too, the result in the long time will be a change in
the polish at the very end of the Hi. As Mr. Sinclaire quoted, Uchiko
(and Paul Chen's one isn't a top level one) is very slightly abrasive.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com] Per conto di mark kd
Inviato: mercoledì 23 novembre 2005 3.52
A: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Oggetto: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!

hello,
i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it
came new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it
up plus there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it.
I shook the Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole
different story. I don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm
doing. It came with a cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what.
anyone who has any knowledge on basic sword cleaning kits and would like
to give me a short explanation of how it all works please do so.
thanks a bundle,
mark




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Good morning.

I think Mr. Sinclaire explanation is quite excellent.
All I want to tell you is this : It seems that you are
a "rookie"
in this matter, I know Katana are very beautiful and a
master piece. But never forget her primary use : to
kill trough cutting. Be very respectful with her and
around her. Remember
what you have in your hands is a Shin Ken and although
it is a recent made blade I know for shore it has a
very sharp and excellent edge.
Also please avoid trying tameshigiri if you do not
know what you are doing, you can ruin your blade and
even worst, get very seriously injured.
Finally, if you are not practicing any martial art
such as Kendo or my beloved Iaido, I strongly
encourage you to do it in order to learn more about
your Shin ken. Only through the right path you will
enjoy it the most.

Best regards.

Federico.

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hello,
Thanks you & to everyone else for the help. Any other tips will be greatful.
thanks again,
Mark

Clive Sinclaire <CSinclaire@...> wrote:
Mark
To clean a blade, first strip the blade of all fittings including the
habaki. The cleaning kit should contain a "powder puffer", probably on a
stick. This is called uchiko and is basically for removing oil. If the blade
is heavilly coated, take a soft cloth or tissue and remove the excess by
wiping, from the habaki area to the kissaki in one stroke. Do not make a
backwards and forwards type of motion. When most of the oil is off, tap out
the uichiko liberally onto the blade, including the mune or back edge. With
a fresh piece of cloth or paper (nugui-game may be supplied in your cleaning
kit in which case it will need crumpling up to soften it) wipe from habaki
area to kissaki, again using one stroke. Eventually this should remove all
the oil although several applications may be necessary. After studying the
now clean blade you may wish to re-oil the blade with the choji-abura that
should be supplied in the cleaning kit.
As the uichiko comes in many grades and qualities and is slightly abraisive,
be sure not to grip the blade too tightly when wiping it and always use the
single stroke method to avoid unsightly scratches. Do not apply any paper or
cloth that has touched the nakago to the rest of the blade as you may
introduce grit onto the polished surface. Never clean the nakago.
I would emphasise that this is how to use a cleaning kit on a real Japanese
sword. I have no knowledge of Paul Chen swords but assume the same method
applies.You should always clean the sword in this way after use in Iai-do as
contact with your hands will quickly rust if not cleaned. Of course, this
does not apply to stainless steel blades.
It is a matter of personal taste as to whether a blade is kept permanently
oiled or dry. Personnely, in the UK where there is generally a moderate
climate I prefer to keep my swords dry although, I have started oiling them
for the summer months in recent years. I know that many derive great
pleasure from cleaning and oiling their swords in an almost ritualistic way.
The smell of the choji-abura (clove oil) is quite pleasant but avoid getting
into any open wounds, scratches etc as it may have an unpleasant reaction.
I hope this is of some interest.
Regards
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "mark kd" <depos42300@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 2:51 AM
Subject: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!


> hello,
> i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it came
new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it up plus
there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it. I shook the
Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole different story. I
don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm doing. It came with a
cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what. anyone who has any knowledge
on basic sword cleaning kits and would like to give me a short explanation
of how it all works please do so.
> thanks a bundle,
> mark
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Join the 2006 Samurai Fiction contest:
> http://www.samurai-archives.com/writcon2.html
>
> Samurai Archives: http://www.samurai-archives.com
> Samurai Archives store: http://www.cafeshops.com/samuraiarchives
> ---
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I am not a sword guru but I have seen a sword by Paul Chen and its the best you can get where I am from. But if its not the best or a top level one what is? Who can I look for. GOD BLESS ALL



Carlo Tacchini <TSUBAME1@...> wrote:
Hi Mark. You don't quote if the blade has Bohi. If your blade has Bohi,
and as it's a working blade that'll see a lot of cleaning, is better to
polish inside the Bohi (ONLY this part, inside the Bohi) *from tip to
Nakago* , the reverse as the rest of the blade, because if you polish
the correct way Hi too, the result in the long time will be a change in
the polish at the very end of the Hi. As Mr. Sinclaire quoted, Uchiko
(and Paul Chen's one isn't a top level one) is very slightly abrasive.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com] Per conto di mark kd
Inviato: mercoledì 23 novembre 2005 3.52
A: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Oggetto: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!

hello,
i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it
came new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it
up plus there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it.
I shook the Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole
different story. I don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm
doing. It came with a cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what.
anyone who has any knowledge on basic sword cleaning kits and would like
to give me a short explanation of how it all works please do so.
thanks a bundle,
mark




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

james,
I've asked the same ? many times to a lot of different people. I've been told that Howard Clark(out of Morgan Valley Forge) makes an excellent katana. Go to his website at mvforge.com. If i can remember, his new L6 katana goes for about $3800 & that's for the blade only. I also know a company out of Japan(i'll get back to you w/ the web address) that makes great katana's also. They run for about $10,000-$15,000 completed. Go to bugei trading company's website(bugei.com), they have a whole array of very high quality katana's all hand made. They start off at around $925 and go up from there. They also work w/ Howard Clark. Anyways,... these are just a few places where you might want to look if you want to purchase a amazing katana. I don't actually own any of them b/c of the prices.( i've a kid's and a wife that doesn't work) This is just what i've heard from A LOT of people. Good luck & if you can actually afford one of them,...i'm jealous. :)
Thanks,
Mark

james wilson <johntwo8@...> wrote:
I am not a sword guru but I have seen a sword by Paul Chen and its the best you can get where I am from. But if its not the best or a top level one what is? Who can I look for. GOD BLESS ALL



Carlo Tacchini <TSUBAME1@...> wrote:
Hi Mark. You don't quote if the blade has Bohi. If your blade has Bohi,
and as it's a working blade that'll see a lot of cleaning, is better to
polish inside the Bohi (ONLY this part, inside the Bohi) *from tip to
Nakago* , the reverse as the rest of the blade, because if you polish
the correct way Hi too, the result in the long time will be a change in
the polish at the very end of the Hi. As Mr. Sinclaire quoted, Uchiko
(and Paul Chen's one isn't a top level one) is very slightly abrasive.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com] Per conto di mark kd
Inviato: mercoledì 23 novembre 2005 3.52
A: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Oggetto: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!

hello,
i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it
came new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it
up plus there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it.
I shook the Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole
different story. I don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm
doing. It came with a cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what.
anyone who has any knowledge on basic sword cleaning kits and would like
to give me a short explanation of how it all works please do so.
thanks a bundle,
mark




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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I was told that the move to defend from four (or all) directions
at once is called a Hagoromo. I wonder if anyone can please
enlarge on that a little, please?
Roland



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To own these Swords is like bringing a new person in the house.. I have
three now and love them very much... Kee

-----Original Message-----
From: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of mark kd
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 7:06 PM
To: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!


hello,
Thanks you & to everyone else for the help. Any other tips will be
greatful.
thanks again,
Mark

Clive Sinclaire <CSinclaire@...> wrote:
Mark
To clean a blade, first strip the blade of all fittings including the
habaki. The cleaning kit should contain a "powder puffer", probably on a
stick. This is called uchiko and is basically for removing oil. If the blade
is heavilly coated, take a soft cloth or tissue and remove the excess by
wiping, from the habaki area to the kissaki in one stroke. Do not make a
backwards and forwards type of motion. When most of the oil is off, tap out
the uichiko liberally onto the blade, including the mune or back edge. With
a fresh piece of cloth or paper (nugui-game may be supplied in your cleaning
kit in which case it will need crumpling up to soften it) wipe from habaki
area to kissaki, again using one stroke. Eventually this should remove all
the oil although several applications may be necessary. After studying the
now clean blade you may wish to re-oil the blade with the choji-abura that
should be supplied in the cleaning kit.
As the uichiko comes in many grades and qualities and is slightly abraisive,
be sure not to grip the blade too tightly when wiping it and always use the
single stroke method to avoid unsightly scratches. Do not apply any paper or
cloth that has touched the nakago to the rest of the blade as you may
introduce grit onto the polished surface. Never clean the nakago.
I would emphasise that this is how to use a cleaning kit on a real Japanese
sword. I have no knowledge of Paul Chen swords but assume the same method
applies.You should always clean the sword in this way after use in Iai-do as
contact with your hands will quickly rust if not cleaned. Of course, this
does not apply to stainless steel blades.
It is a matter of personal taste as to whether a blade is kept permanently
oiled or dry. Personnely, in the UK where there is generally a moderate
climate I prefer to keep my swords dry although, I have started oiling them
for the summer months in recent years. I know that many derive great
pleasure from cleaning and oiling their swords in an almost ritualistic way.
The smell of the choji-abura (clove oil) is quite pleasant but avoid getting
into any open wounds, scratches etc as it may have an unpleasant reaction.
I hope this is of some interest.
Regards
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "mark kd" <depos42300@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 2:51 AM
Subject: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!


> hello,
> i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it came
new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it up plus
there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it. I shook the
Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole different story. I
don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm doing. It came with a
cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what. anyone who has any knowledge
on basic sword cleaning kits and would like to give me a short explanation
of how it all works please do so.
> thanks a bundle,
> mark
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Join the 2006 Samurai Fiction contest:
> http://www.samurai-archives.com/writcon2.html
>
> Samurai Archives: http://www.samurai-archives.com
> Samurai Archives store: http://www.cafeshops.com/samuraiarchives
> ---
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>


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Does anyone know where I can find Samurai movies on DVD at a
discount?
Roland

james wilson johntwo8-at-yahoo.com |Yahoogroups samuraihistory
forum| wrote:

> I am not a sword guru but I have seen a sword by Paul Chen and its the
> best you can get where I am from. But if its not the best or a top level
> one what is? Who can I look for. GOD BLESS ALL
>
>
>
> Carlo Tacchini <TSUBAME1@...> wrote:
> Hi Mark. You don't quote if the blade has Bohi. If your blade has Bohi,
> and as it's a working blade that'll see a lot of cleaning, is better to
> polish inside the Bohi (ONLY this part, inside the Bohi) *from tip to
> Nakago* , the reverse as the rest of the blade, because if you polish
> the correct way Hi too, the result in the long time will be a change in
> the polish at the very end of the Hi. As Mr. Sinclaire quoted, Uchiko
> (and Paul Chen's one isn't a top level one) is very slightly abrasive.
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com] Per conto di mark kd
> Inviato: mercoledì 23 novembre 2005 3.52
> A: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
> Oggetto: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!
>
> hello,
> i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it
> came new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it
> up plus there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it.
> I shook the Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole
> different story. I don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm
> doing. It came with a cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what.
> anyone who has any knowledge on basic sword cleaning kits and would like
> to give me a short explanation of how it all works please do so.
> thanks a bundle,
> mark
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Join the 2006 Samurai Fiction contest:
> http://www.samurai-archives.com/writcon2.html
>
> Samurai Archives: http://www.samurai-archives.com
> Samurai Archives store: http://www.cafeshops.com/samuraiarchives
> ---
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ---
> Join the 2006 Samurai Fiction contest:
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>
> Samurai Archives: http://www.samurai-archives.com
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>
>
>
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>
>
> Visit your group "samuraihistory" on the web.
>
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> samuraihistory-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
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>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
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i could not agree with you more....mike

--- federico trejos <federicotrejos@...> wrote:

>
> Good morning.
>
> I think Mr. Sinclaire explanation is quite
> excellent.
> All I want to tell you is this : It seems that you
> are
> a "rookie"
> in this matter, I know Katana are very beautiful and
> a
> master piece. But never forget her primary use :
> to
> kill trough cutting. Be very respectful with her
> and
> around her. Remember
> what you have in your hands is a Shin Ken and
> although
> it is a recent made blade I know for shore it has a
> very sharp and excellent edge.
> Also please avoid trying tameshigiri if you do
> not
> know what you are doing, you can ruin your blade and
> even worst, get very seriously injured.
> Finally, if you are not practicing any martial
> art
> such as Kendo or my beloved Iaido, I strongly
> encourage you to do it in order to learn more about
> your Shin ken. Only through the right path you
> will
> enjoy it the most.
>
> Best regards.
>
> Federico.
>
> __________________________________________________
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James
I think it is worth being realistic when discussing Paul Chen swords. They
are of course, very good for Iai-do and I hear (although I have no personal
experience) that they are improving in quality. I even hear that certain
mukansa level Japanese swordsmiths are regularly visiting Shanghai and
teaching the making of Japanese swords to local craftsmen, presumably for
commercial considerations.

However, the point that I am struggling to make is that Chen swords are in
no way comprable to fine swords from the pre Meiji period or even the hand
made swords from post Meiji jidai. These swords are known, because of their great beauty, as Token Bijutsu and those of particular historical or
cultural importance are of great value. There is, therefore, a world of
difference between the more practical swords of Paul Chen and "real"
Japanese swords. I just think that it is importanat that those who buy
Chinese made Japanese swords, if that is not a contradiction in terms, are
labouring under no illusions.

I write the above in answer to James's question But if its not the best or a top level one what is? Who can I look for.
If I have the wrong end of the stick on this discussion, please forgive me.
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "james wilson" <johntwo8@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2005 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: R: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!! ok
quick question


I am not a sword guru but I have seen a sword by Paul Chen and its the best
you can get where I am from. But if its not the best or a top level one what
is? Who can I look for. GOD BLESS ALL



Carlo Tacchini <TSUBAME1@...> wrote:
Hi Mark. You don't quote if the blade has Bohi. If your blade has Bohi,
and as it's a working blade that'll see a lot of cleaning, is better to
polish inside the Bohi (ONLY this part, inside the Bohi) *from tip to
Nakago* , the reverse as the rest of the blade, because if you polish
the correct way Hi too, the result in the long time will be a change in
the polish at the very end of the Hi. As Mr. Sinclaire quoted, Uchiko
(and Paul Chen's one isn't a top level one) is very slightly abrasive.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com] Per conto di mark kd
Inviato: mercoledì 23 novembre 2005 3.52
A: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Oggetto: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!

hello,
i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it
came new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it
up plus there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it.
I shook the Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole
different story. I don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm
doing. It came with a cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what.
anyone who has any knowledge on basic sword cleaning kits and would like
to give me a short explanation of how it all works please do so.
thanks a bundle,
mark




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi again,
i just "cleaned" the katana. I think i did ok. the only thing that concerns me is that i don't think i used the little hammer thingy right. it's a three piece thing,....right? I unscrewed the little punch from the top and thwacked the pins out of the handle. The hammer part kept unscrewing from the handle part as i thwacked away. Plus,....when i tried to put the pins back in i bent the little punch thing and now it won't screw back into the hammer! YIKES! do you think that it was a cheap hammer or am i just doing it all wrong? Another thing,....i first took the katana apart, then wiped the oil off with that soft paper stuff, then i powdered it up, then i wiped again. I used the soft paper to re-oil it up. Was that the correct way? The tang looked a little rusty. I oiled it up a little bit. Was that bad? How do i get rid of those little rust spots on the tang? Wire wheel or brush or nothing at all? Can i use regular metal polish on the brass fittings or should i use oil? Any
feedback would be very very greatful.
Thanks again,
Mark

Clive Sinclaire <CSinclaire@...> wrote:
Mark
To clean a blade, first strip the blade of all fittings including the
habaki. The cleaning kit should contain a "powder puffer", probably on a
stick. This is called uchiko and is basically for removing oil. If the blade
is heavilly coated, take a soft cloth or tissue and remove the excess by
wiping, from the habaki area to the kissaki in one stroke. Do not make a
backwards and forwards type of motion. When most of the oil is off, tap out
the uichiko liberally onto the blade, including the mune or back edge. With
a fresh piece of cloth or paper (nugui-game may be supplied in your cleaning
kit in which case it will need crumpling up to soften it) wipe from habaki
area to kissaki, again using one stroke. Eventually this should remove all
the oil although several applications may be necessary. After studying the
now clean blade you may wish to re-oil the blade with the choji-abura that
should be supplied in the cleaning kit.
As the uichiko comes in many grades and qualities and is slightly abraisive,
be sure not to grip the blade too tightly when wiping it and always use the
single stroke method to avoid unsightly scratches. Do not apply any paper or
cloth that has touched the nakago to the rest of the blade as you may
introduce grit onto the polished surface. Never clean the nakago.
I would emphasise that this is how to use a cleaning kit on a real Japanese
sword. I have no knowledge of Paul Chen swords but assume the same method
applies.You should always clean the sword in this way after use in Iai-do as
contact with your hands will quickly rust if not cleaned. Of course, this
does not apply to stainless steel blades.
It is a matter of personal taste as to whether a blade is kept permanently
oiled or dry. Personnely, in the UK where there is generally a moderate
climate I prefer to keep my swords dry although, I have started oiling them
for the summer months in recent years. I know that many derive great
pleasure from cleaning and oiling their swords in an almost ritualistic way.
The smell of the choji-abura (clove oil) is quite pleasant but avoid getting
into any open wounds, scratches etc as it may have an unpleasant reaction.
I hope this is of some interest.
Regards
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "mark kd" <depos42300@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, November 23, 2005 2:51 AM
Subject: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!


> hello,
> i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it came
new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it up plus
there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it. I shook the
Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole different story. I
don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm doing. It came with a
cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what. anyone who has any knowledge
on basic sword cleaning kits and would like to give me a short explanation
of how it all works please do so.
> thanks a bundle,
> mark
>
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
> ---
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> ---
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Good morning.

Ok. If you bent the pin, the best thing to do now is
buy a new one. Next: never, never, NEVER; clean the
Tang. That rust is a good indicative of how old is
your sword. Since your sword is a very recent piece,
it really does not matter to date it now... but who
knows the future.
Finally, you already buy a very beauty, expensive and
fine sword. Do not ruin it. The only way to clean a
japanese sword is the one Mr. Sinclaire explain you.
Do not do anything diferent than that.
I strongly encourage you to read the articles in this
wp :
http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/nihonto.htm
You will find a lot of useful info here.

Best regards.








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Good morning.

We do not have to forgive you anything Mr. Sinclaire.
I really enjoy reading your post in this forum and the
articles you wrote. But best of all, I learn.
And i think that is why we all are here for. To learn
and share points of view.

Best regards to all.

__________________________________________________
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Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis!
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In Araki Ryu Iaido, our kata (hagoromo) is used to defend ourselves from four attackers coming in from different directions.

Bob Corella
www.kenshindojo.net
Phoenix, Arizona

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I was asking about the Hagoromo details for a novelisation about a
young teenaged girl with some chain mail armor and a Samurai
sword. It's a popular genre so I hoped someone might know a little
more about it. Perhaps what I need to do is find a few books on
the entire subject of Samurai and their swordsmanship, since I
live too far from the city now to go and talk to anyone in person
who teaches. Thanks and have a great day.

Roland

author- Si'Wren of the Patriarchs



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hi federico,
so.....i should never clean the tang again? will it effect the rest of the blade? b/c i already tried to clean it will it now ruin the blade?
Thanks,
Mark

federico trejos <federicotrejos@...> wrote:
Good morning.

Ok. If you bent the pin, the best thing to do now is
buy a new one. Next: never, never, NEVER; clean the
Tang. That rust is a good indicative of how old is
your sword. Since your sword is a very recent piece,
it really does not matter to date it now... but who
knows the future.
Finally, you already buy a very beauty, expensive and
fine sword. Do not ruin it. The only way to clean a
japanese sword is the one Mr. Sinclaire explain you.
Do not do anything diferent than that.
I strongly encourage you to read the articles in this
wp :
http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/nihonto.htm
You will find a lot of useful info here.

Best regards.








__________________________________________________
Correo Yahoo!
Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis!
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Wow thanks that made perfect sense. You are correct in the Chinese making Japanese swords being a contradiction in itself. Hmm but also a big thanks to telling me where to find a real one. GOD BLESS YOU ALL

inclaire <CSinclaire@...> wrote: James
I think it is worth being realistic when discussing Paul Chen swords. They
are of course, very good for Iai-do and I hear (although I have no personal
experience) that they are improving in quality. I even hear that certain
mukansa level Japanese swordsmiths are regularly visiting Shanghai and
teaching the making of Japanese swords to local craftsmen, presumably for
commercial considerations.

However, the point that I am struggling to make is that Chen swords are in
no way comprable to fine swords from the pre Meiji period or even the hand
made swords from post Meiji jidai. These swords are known, because of their great beauty, as Token Bijutsu and those of particular historical or
cultural importance are of great value. There is, therefore, a world of
difference between the more practical swords of Paul Chen and "real"
Japanese swords. I just think that it is importanat that those who buy
Chinese made Japanese swords, if that is not a contradiction in terms, are
labouring under no illusions.

I write the above in answer to James's question But if its not the best or a top level one what is? Who can I look for.
If I have the wrong end of the stick on this discussion, please forgive me.
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "james wilson" <johntwo8@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2005 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: R: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!! ok
quick question


I am not a sword guru but I have seen a sword by Paul Chen and its the best
you can get where I am from. But if its not the best or a top level one what
is? Who can I look for. GOD BLESS ALL



Carlo Tacchini <TSUBAME1@...> wrote:
Hi Mark. You don't quote if the blade has Bohi. If your blade has Bohi,
and as it's a working blade that'll see a lot of cleaning, is better to
polish inside the Bohi (ONLY this part, inside the Bohi) *from tip to
Nakago* , the reverse as the rest of the blade, because if you polish
the correct way Hi too, the result in the long time will be a change in
the polish at the very end of the Hi. As Mr. Sinclaire quoted, Uchiko
(and Paul Chen's one isn't a top level one) is very slightly abrasive.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com] Per conto di mark kd
Inviato: mercoledì 23 novembre 2005 3.52
A: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Oggetto: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!

hello,
i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it
came new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it
up plus there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it.
I shook the Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole
different story. I don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm
doing. It came with a cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what.
anyone who has any knowledge on basic sword cleaning kits and would like
to give me a short explanation of how it all works please do so.
thanks a bundle,
mark




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Clive,
What sword is better structurally?(better metal quality) Today's Paul Chen swords or Meiji Period swords? Which holds an edge better?
Thanks,
Mark

Clive Sinclaire <CSinclaire@...> wrote:
James
I think it is worth being realistic when discussing Paul Chen swords. They
are of course, very good for Iai-do and I hear (although I have no personal
experience) that they are improving in quality. I even hear that certain
mukansa level Japanese swordsmiths are regularly visiting Shanghai and
teaching the making of Japanese swords to local craftsmen, presumably for
commercial considerations.

However, the point that I am struggling to make is that Chen swords are in
no way comprable to fine swords from the pre Meiji period or even the hand
made swords from post Meiji jidai. These swords are known, because of their great beauty, as Token Bijutsu and those of particular historical or
cultural importance are of great value. There is, therefore, a world of
difference between the more practical swords of Paul Chen and "real"
Japanese swords. I just think that it is importanat that those who buy
Chinese made Japanese swords, if that is not a contradiction in terms, are
labouring under no illusions.

I write the above in answer to James's question But if its not the best or a top level one what is? Who can I look for.
If I have the wrong end of the stick on this discussion, please forgive me.
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "james wilson" <johntwo8@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2005 5:48 AM
Subject: Re: R: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!! ok
quick question


I am not a sword guru but I have seen a sword by Paul Chen and its the best
you can get where I am from. But if its not the best or a top level one what
is? Who can I look for. GOD BLESS ALL



Carlo Tacchini <TSUBAME1@...> wrote:
Hi Mark. You don't quote if the blade has Bohi. If your blade has Bohi,
and as it's a working blade that'll see a lot of cleaning, is better to
polish inside the Bohi (ONLY this part, inside the Bohi) *from tip to
Nakago* , the reverse as the rest of the blade, because if you polish
the correct way Hi too, the result in the long time will be a change in
the polish at the very end of the Hi. As Mr. Sinclaire quoted, Uchiko
(and Paul Chen's one isn't a top level one) is very slightly abrasive.

-----Messaggio originale-----
Da: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com] Per conto di mark kd
Inviato: mercoledì 23 novembre 2005 3.52
A: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Oggetto: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!

hello,
i just purchased a paul chen wind & thunder katana off ebay. it
came new in the box. when i opened it, the factory had heavily oiled it
up plus there are little woodchips from the Saya(scabbard) all over it.
I shook the Saya out as much as possible but the blade is a whole
different story. I don't want to try to clean it untill i know what i'm
doing. It came with a cleaning kit but i don't know what is for what.
anyone who has any knowledge on basic sword cleaning kits and would like
to give me a short explanation of how it all works please do so.
thanks a bundle,
mark




---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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I agree. I had the graet pleasure of meeting Mr sinclaire back in the summer and found his advice very helpful, about paul chen sword well they are an adequate standard, but they are a massed produced product, simply put they ar ea a product, they lack the love, soul and quality of a finely balanced blade

federico trejos <federicotrejos@...> wrote:
Good morning.

We do not have to forgive you anything Mr. Sinclaire.
I really enjoy reading your post in this forum and the
articles you wrote. But best of all, I learn.
And i think that is why we all are here for. To learn
and share points of view.

Best regards to all.

__________________________________________________
Correo Yahoo!
Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis!
Regístrate ya - http://correo.espanol.yahoo.com/





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Mark
On an old blade there is much useful information to be found on the nakago
(tang) which may be lost through cleaning. Each school of swordsmiths shaped
their nakago in different and individual ways. Also the file marks
(yasurime) are often an indication of school, swordsmith and age. Of course,
any inscription is important as well as the natural patination of the nakago
which can indicate the age as well as wether the nakago has been interfered
with. All these things may be damaged by cleaning.

Further, although a polished blade should never be touched with the bare
skin, for reasons that have already been given, it is quite acceptable to
hold the nakago in the naked hand. In this case the natural oils and sweat
in the skin will actually (over many years) aid the patination.
For your own peace of mind, I cannot believe you will have done any damage
in the short time you seem to have had your sword.

As for your other question, I am afraid I cannot comment on Paul Chen swords
which I do not really class as Japanese swords. However, I can say that
swords made in the immediate pre Meiji period, the Bakamatsu period, and
which we call shinshinto (new new swords) were made to be used and that some
very fine blades were made by such swordsmiths as Masahide, Kiyomaro,
Naotane and Munetsugu. These swords were often of sturdy proportions and
attempts to opy the styles of blades of the Kamakura and Yoshino
(Nambokucho) periods.
They had true hamon having gone through the quenching process and I am
unsure even if swords from China are hand made and water quenched or, in
other words, made in the traditional manner. Today, there are some 350
licensed swordsmiths making swords in Japan and they are quite strictly
controlled but all use traditional methods in order to keep the craft alive.

Regards
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "mark kd" <depos42300@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!


hi federico,
so.....i should never clean the tang again? will it effect the rest of
the blade? b/c i already tried to clean it will it now ruin the blade?
Thanks,
Mark

federico trejos <federicotrejos@...> wrote:
Good morning.

Ok. If you bent the pin, the best thing to do now is
buy a new one. Next: never, never, NEVER; clean the
Tang. That rust is a good indicative of how old is
your sword. Since your sword is a very recent piece,
it really does not matter to date it now... but who
knows the future.
Finally, you already buy a very beauty, expensive and
fine sword. Do not ruin it. The only way to clean a
japanese sword is the one Mr. Sinclaire explain you.
Do not do anything diferent than that.
I strongly encourage you to read the articles in this
wp :
http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/nihonto.htm
You will find a lot of useful info here.

Best regards.








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--- mark kd <depos42300@...> wrote:

> james,
> I've asked the same ? many times to a lot of
> different people.

I've worked out with the only sword smith in HI. If I
can be of help let me know. The man knows his stuff
and his history

Rick

11-6-2005 ADDED Ronbo's Fitness Video. Feel F.ree to Add Yours
http://kirkhamsebooks.com/HealthNFitness/

Workout Timer Plays Music or Tada Try it Out
http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/KirkhamsEbooks2
/files/MartialArtsSoftware/

WARNING TO PARENTS
http://starbulletin.com/2004/08/12/news/story3.html

Good morning.

Do not worry. It will not damage the rest of the
blade.
Another important thing. I do not recomend you to
untie the Tsukaito, since it is very difficult to
re-tie it properly. There are even, people who
specialize in this matter; as there are people who
specialize in polishing blades. Speaking of wich, do
not try to sharppen your blade, this is a very hard
thing to do. And you can get seriously injured
trying.

Best regards.


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please, tell me. Kee

-----Original Message-----
From: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of Sensei J. Richard
Kirkham B.Sc
Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 3:50 AM
To: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: R: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!
ok quick question




--- mark kd <depos42300@...> wrote:

> james,
> I've asked the same ? many times to a lot of
> different people.

I've worked out with the only sword smith in HI. If I
can be of help let me know. The man knows his stuff
and his history

Rick

11-6-2005 ADDED Ronbo's Fitness Video. Feel F.ree to Add Yours
http://kirkhamsebooks.com/HealthNFitness/

Workout Timer Plays Music or Tada Try it Out
http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/KirkhamsEbooks2
/files/MartialArtsSoftware/

WARNING TO PARENTS
http://starbulletin.com/2004/08/12/news/story3.html



---
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Clive,
thank you very much.
Mark

Clive Sinclaire <CSinclaire@...> wrote:
Mark
On an old blade there is much useful information to be found on the nakago
(tang) which may be lost through cleaning. Each school of swordsmiths shaped
their nakago in different and individual ways. Also the file marks
(yasurime) are often an indication of school, swordsmith and age. Of course,
any inscription is important as well as the natural patination of the nakago
which can indicate the age as well as wether the nakago has been interfered
with. All these things may be damaged by cleaning.

Further, although a polished blade should never be touched with the bare
skin, for reasons that have already been given, it is quite acceptable to
hold the nakago in the naked hand. In this case the natural oils and sweat
in the skin will actually (over many years) aid the patination.
For your own peace of mind, I cannot believe you will have done any damage
in the short time you seem to have had your sword.

As for your other question, I am afraid I cannot comment on Paul Chen swords
which I do not really class as Japanese swords. However, I can say that
swords made in the immediate pre Meiji period, the Bakamatsu period, and
which we call shinshinto (new new swords) were made to be used and that some
very fine blades were made by such swordsmiths as Masahide, Kiyomaro,
Naotane and Munetsugu. These swords were often of sturdy proportions and
attempts to opy the styles of blades of the Kamakura and Yoshino
(Nambokucho) periods.
They had true hamon having gone through the quenching process and I am
unsure even if swords from China are hand made and water quenched or, in
other words, made in the traditional manner. Today, there are some 350
licensed swordsmiths making swords in Japan and they are quite strictly
controlled but all use traditional methods in order to keep the craft alive.

Regards
Clive Sinclaire

----- Original Message -----
From: "mark kd" <depos42300@...>
To: <samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 25, 2005 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: [samuraihistory] cleaning a new katana HELP PLEASE!!!!


hi federico,
so.....i should never clean the tang again? will it effect the rest of
the blade? b/c i already tried to clean it will it now ruin the blade?
Thanks,
Mark

federico trejos <federicotrejos@...> wrote:
Good morning.

Ok. If you bent the pin, the best thing to do now is
buy a new one. Next: never, never, NEVER; clean the
Tang. That rust is a good indicative of how old is
your sword. Since your sword is a very recent piece,
it really does not matter to date it now... but who
knows the future.
Finally, you already buy a very beauty, expensive and
fine sword. Do not ruin it. The only way to clean a
japanese sword is the one Mr. Sinclaire explain you.
Do not do anything diferent than that.
I strongly encourage you to read the articles in this
wp :
http://home.earthlink.net/~steinrl/nihonto.htm
You will find a lot of useful info here.

Best regards.








__________________________________________________
Correo Yahoo!
Espacio para todos tus mensajes, antivirus y antispam ¡gratis!
Regístrate ya - http://correo.espanol.yahoo.com/




---
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http://www.samurai-archives.com/writcon2.html

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Samurai Archives store: http://www.cafeshops.com/samuraiarchives
---



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Samurai Japan Japan airline

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Visit your group "samuraihistory" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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---------------------------------






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






---
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mark :
Remember what we both have in our hands are replicas.
They could be very well done, very beautiful to watch
and I do know for shore, they cut very well !!! But
that is what they are :
replicas. Our swords are mostly made for Iaido and
Kendo practice, usually to practice tameshigiri.
This, because a real sword is considered as a master
piece and in their time they were tested, so it is not
necesary to test them again.
Besides, it is unthinkable that a regualar Iaido or
Kendo Sensei will employ a real blade for this kind of
practice. ( Although I have heard that some japanese
Sensei use real blades, mostly beacause they are from
Samurai families, so a real sword is part of their
heritage ).
Also keep in mind that; is very hard that a now days
blade is very hard to be considered as made as in the
old days, even if it is hand made. Perhaps Mr.
Sinclaire can help us here. There are many things to
consider here : Kinds of steel, techniques employed
in the forge process and even the enviroment
temperature and humidity plays an important role.
And just to say someones.

Best regards.


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Hi.

Anthony is more of an arms and armour buff than I am, so he can tell
you about armour in detail. However, there are several things that you
should take into account when writing your book. One is that chain mail
plays much less of a role in Japan than it did in England and France.
The other is what exactly is this girl doing with a military equipment
and why? Here you should pick your time period with a bit of care. A
lot of the legendary female soldiers come from the time of about the
Genpei War or the rather earlier early Imperial period. Finally, are
you more interested in writing a generic North American story dressed
up in Japanese finery, or are you interested in exploring more
typically Japanese motivations?

Hi.

People keep wanting documentation for Japanese tents, because they want
tents and they want them to be Japanese. However, just because you want
Japanese tents does not mean that the historical Japanese are going to
have done much if anything to oblige you. Japan is 90% mountainous and
has, to the best of my knowledge, never supported a particularly
nomadic or otherwise pastoral culture. There is even reason to believe
that the Jomon Jidai hunter gatherers were essentially sedentary. Such
people have relatively little reason to embrace tents. This is
especially true when you realize that much of Japan was thickly
forested.