Semi-Shaved Heads and Topknots

Hi all,
I've read a fair amount about this topic, however most of the infomation seems to be inconsistent.
Who really wore topknots and why? I understand the topknot was very important to the samurai class, but why in various prints, paintings and historical depictions of the times peasants are also showen with semi-shaven heads and topknots?
I've read the reason samurai semi-shaved their heads was for an easier and more comfortable fit when wearing a helmet. Fact or fiction?
Whilst all samurai seemed to have a topknot unless they were monks not all seemsd to shave the top part of their heads, why?
Any ideas?
Cheers,
Miles


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On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:47:41 +0530, miles gilbertさん wrote in message <MKNAKNIBIAPECBAA@...>

>Hi all,
>I've read a fair amount about this topic, however most of the infomation
>seems to be inconsistent.

I am by no means an expert on this topic so hopefully you'll get
more knowelgeable replies. But for what it's worth:

>Who really wore topknots and why? I understand the topknot was very important
>to the samurai class, but why in various prints, paintings and historical
>depictions of the times peasants are also showen with semi-shaven heads and
>topknots?

It might help to define what era of Japanese history you're thinking
of. In my recollection the top-knot (mage) is something that came
about in the Heian period - about the 12th century and beyond. At
that time it seems that it was exclusively a samurai-class
hairstyle. But later - especially very late, such as the Edo period -
the mage became fashionable among broader classes.

>I've read the reason samurai semi-shaved their heads was for an easier and
>more comfortable fit when wearing a helmet. Fact or fiction?

This is definitely the standard explanation. It is also commonly said
that the shaving came from earlier (again around the Heian
period) and was related to the particular hats that were in
fashion at the time. These were called e-boushi and kanmuri. Here is
a good site that shows what they looked like:
http://kariginu.jp/kikata/2-2.htm

But for what it's worth, in my opinion this is probably just a (very
well accepted) urban myth or legend. The shaving of the head strikes
me as essentially fashion. Other cultures had helmets but not
head-shaving.

>Whilst all samurai seemed to have a topknot unless they were monks not all
>seemsd to shave the top part of their heads, why?

Again it's basically fashion. There are many different types of styles
that were popular across a long range of years. Some of them have
shaved heads, some do not. By the way the most commonly depicted style
of shaved head and the one you are probably thinking of is called the
"sakayaki" style.

Hope this helps a little, in the absence of more expert answers.

--
Jay Kelly
oyakata@...

The 'chonmage' style of topknot worn by sumo wrestlers (or 'oichomage' for the top rikishi) copies the fashions of the 18th century. These find their precedents in Japan among the court styles of the Heian-jidai, with earlier examples unsurprisingly seen in T'ang China. Many sources perpetuate the theory that the style was adopted, by both samurai and ashigaru to facilitate the wearing of a helmet, and give a greater cushion to the skull (a principle still seen sumo, in which the topknot is also to protect the heads during falls). In the Edojidai, the topknot was common throughout society, with the shaved front more than likely a fashion decision for the traditionally flambuoyant samurai.
M.Lorimer

Oyakata <oyakata@...> wrote:
On Fri, 16 Apr 2004 12:47:41 +0530, miles gilbert､ｵ､� wrote in message <MKNAKNIBIAPECBAA@...>

>Hi all,
>I've read a fair amount about this topic, however most of the infomation
>seems to be inconsistent.

I am by no means an expert on this topic so hopefully you'll get
more knowelgeable replies. But for what it's worth:

>Who really wore topknots and why? I understand the topknot was very important
>to the samurai class, but why in various prints, paintings and historical
>depictions of the times peasants are also showen with semi-shaven heads and
>topknots?

It might help to define what era of Japanese history you're thinking
of. In my recollection the top-knot (mage) is something that came
about in the Heian period - about the 12th century and beyond. At
that time it seems that it was exclusively a samurai-class
hairstyle. But later - especially very late, such as the Edo period -
the mage became fashionable among broader classes.

>I've read the reason samurai semi-shaved their heads was for an easier and
>more comfortable fit when wearing a helmet. Fact or fiction?

This is definitely the standard explanation. It is also commonly said
that the shaving came from earlier (again around the Heian
period) and was related to the particular hats that were in
fashion at the time. These were called e-boushi and kanmuri. Here is
a good site that shows what they looked like:
http://kariginu.jp/kikata/2-2.htm

But for what it's worth, in my opinion this is probably just a (very
well accepted) urban myth or legend. The shaving of the head strikes
me as essentially fashion. Other cultures had helmets but not
head-shaving.

>Whilst all samurai seemed to have a topknot unless they were monks not all
>seemsd to shave the top part of their heads, why?

Again it's basically fashion. There are many different types of styles
that were popular across a long range of years. Some of them have
shaved heads, some do not. By the way the most commonly depicted style
of shaved head and the one you are probably thinking of is called the
"sakayaki" style.

Hope this helps a little, in the absence of more expert answers.

--
Jay Kelly
oyakata@...


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

This subject has caught my attention and I've been tooling around the
web looking for information. I've found that Tenmu Tennou made a
royal proclamation (mikotonori) that said that men should "put up
their hair". While this is quite vague it could very well be the
origins of the mage hairstyle amoung the ruling classes. Tenmu ruled
in the late 7th century.

This is a piece of data that says that probably topknots (mage) were
not created by samurai in the 16-17th centuries with an eye to some
benefit in combat.

On Sun, 18 Apr 2004 07:25:16 +0100 (BST), Michael Lorimerさん wrote in message <20040418062516.67797.qmail@...>

> In the Edojidai, the topknot was common throughout society, with the
>shaved front more than likely a fashion decision for the

traditionally >flambuoyant samurai.

I agree in the main with what you're saying. But hairstyles
involving shaving (strictly speaking, plucking of hair), either with
or without top-knots, were around long before the Edo jidai. As I
mentioned, it's the accepted wisdom (again again it strikes me as
urban myth) that part of the head being bald facilitated the wearing
of the hats of the day - e-boushi and kanmuri. But like you, it
strikes me as essentially fashion.

--
Jay Kelly
oyakata@...

Michael Lorimer wrote:

> The 'chonmage' style of topknot worn by sumo wrestlers (or 'oichomage' for
> the top rikishi) copies the fashions of the 18th century. These find their
> precedents in Japan among the court styles of the Heian-jidai, with earlier
> examples unsurprisingly seen in T'ang China. Many sources perpetuate the
> theory that the style was adopted, by both samurai and ashigaru to facilitate
> the wearing of a helmet, and give a greater cushion to the skull (a principle
> still seen sumo, in which the topknot is also to protect the heads during
> falls). In the Edojidai, the topknot was common throughout society, with the
> shaved front more than likely a fashion decision for the traditionally
> flambuoyant samurai. M.Lorimer

I think you're misreading how they say it developed, because when they wore a
helmet samurai would let *down* their hair -- the topknot would have interfered
in wearing the things.


Tony

Oyakata wrote:

> This is a piece of data that says that probably topknots (mage) were
> not created by samurai in the 16-17th centuries with an eye to some
> benefit in combat.

Well, they defintely weren't.

Court nobles were wearing their hair styled like that from the 8th century or
earlier, and warriors tended to copy their betters at court.


Tony

Question
I saw the reference to sumo wrestlers. How did the topknot get from
the battlefield and government officials to the dohyo? Is it just another way
in which the rikishi are showing their affinity for "traditional" Japan, like
the reason they wear kimonos? Thanks. :-) Take care.

Tim


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Sun, 18 Apr 2004 09:44:29 -0500, Anthony J. Bryantさん wrote in message <4082944D.50001@...>

>Oyakata wrote:
>
>> This is a piece of data that says that probably topknots (mage) were
>> not created by samurai in the 16-17th centuries [when] with an eye

to some >> benefit in combat [why]

>
>Well, they defintely weren't.

Thank you for supporting my point.

>Court nobles were wearing their hair styled like that from the 8th century or
>earlier, and warriors tended to copy their betters at court.

Yes, this aligns nicely with my point about _when_ mage came about.
It was in the line that immediately procedes the text you quote
above. Again it was:

"While this is quite vague it could very well be the origins of the
mage hairstyle amoung the ruling classes. Tenmu ruled in the late 7th
century."

But the exchange was also talking about _why_, or rather why not, the
mage may have come about. And I see that in a separate message you
do agree with my point (made above) that the mage is not a hairstyle
that came about for some benefit in combat.

It's nice to know I was essentially correct on both points!

--
Jay Kelly
oyakata@...

The first recorded sumo tournament was held by Empress Kogyoku in 642 for a visiting group of Baekche officials. From that point the sport became an intrinsic part of the martial tournaments, along with equestrianism and archery, with the sumaibito/sumotori drawn from across the country appointed to represent either the Right or Left garrisons of the Imperial Guard. Later Minamoto no Yoritomo was a great fan, holding bouts at the Tsuruoka Hachimangu Shrine, then later Oda Nobunaga who organized a 1,500 strong bout at Azuchi-jou in 1578. During the Edojidai, numerous ronin turned to sumo in the entertainment quarters of Edo or Kyoto, while others served daimyo, receiving a stipend and receiving samurai status. The rikishi are surely continuing their fondness for 'traditional Japan', but so are those who hold traditional style weddings, wear yukata in the summer, learn ikebana or sado, et alia. Sumo was not a separate institution but part of the fabric of court, and later samurai,
life, and therefore it is only natural that the fashions and traditions should pass over.
M. Lorimer

Eponymous13@... wrote:
Question
I saw the reference to sumo wrestlers. How did the topknot get from
the battlefield and government officials to the dohyo? Is it just another way
in which the rikishi are showing their affinity for "traditional" Japan, like
the reason they wear kimonos? Thanks. :-) Take care.

Tim


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

 http://web.sfc.keio.ac.jp/~t99285mk/chousa/self/shiryou/
book_nihonkamiizenshi.html

Miles et al-
Sasama Yoshihiko Sensei's dictionary of everyday life in Japan shows
some eighty hairstyles for men, and more than double that for women. If
we are talking about the Edo period hairstyles were strictly coded for
class, rank and privaledge. Young men usually did not shave their heads
until they took the Gempuku, coming of age, even then some might have
worn a long forelock. Thus in film we see older "boys" chided for
wearing this childish haiirstyle even though they are men or nearly
men. Also not uncommon for "gay" characters to wear the same style even
though they are older.
An adult male attached to a lord would shave his forelock, a ronin or
non-conformist, might not. The many different styles mentioned above
meant that a persons class and status were instantly recognizable.
Samurai top-knots were set straight while farmers and merchants were
set to one side or the other, how the end was cut, the material used to
tie it and a dozen other things were proscribed by law.
Sasama tells us that the hair could either be worn loose or up, in a
knot when wearing Oyoroi. At the time Heian gentlemen worn eboshi, a
soft hat. Because it was soft it would fold over and these were known
as hire-eboshi, a stiff lacquered version was worn with kabuto,
wrapping the hair it was pulled thru the tehen at the top of the helmet
bowl. Being associated with the Bushi class they became known as
"Samurai Eboshi." Heian fashion, not unlike today was a very particular
world with strict rules; a few loose hairs was tantamount to farting in
someones face, so any loose hairs were plucked.
There are several theories as to the rise of Chon-mage. One has it
that shaving was more convenient than plucking for when wearing boshi
but the hairstyle remained even when the hat fell out of use. Another
says the hat fell out of use because shaving the head became popular.
There is the Nobunaga theory; he got fed up with plucking and said "Oh
just shave it!", and the Jesuit theory; the style adopted by European
monks became a nationwide fad (my favorite).The Mohawk theory; it was
considered so manly and fiercesome no warrior could do without it.
Some say that taking the time to dress the hair before battle in an age
of constant warfare was useless and wasteful, so shaved heads were the
norm for warriors ( I think this one is the strongest argument).
It all seems to have come about in the Sengoku Jidai, though it
started earlier, thats why I like the last theory, no one seems to be
saying it was specifically because of or for the wearing of helmets.

-t

PS many Sumo-tori were of Samurai class or recieved promotion to such
when very successful by the late Edo it was de rigeur...



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

About the Semi-Shaved Heads,
Please help me with one question.If they were cut the knot on their head,they would be dishonored????

Edy

----- Original Message -----
From: Oyakata
To: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 8:35 PM
Subject: Re: [samuraihistory] Semi-Shaved Heads and Topknots


On Sun, 18 Apr 2004 09:44:29 -0500, Anthony J. Bryantさん wrote in message <4082944D.50001@...>
>Oyakata wrote:
>
>> This is a piece of data that says that probably topknots (mage) were
>> not created by samurai in the 16-17th centuries [when] with an eye
to some >> benefit in combat [why]
>
>Well, they defintely weren't.

Thank you for supporting my point.

>Court nobles were wearing their hair styled like that from the 8th century or
>earlier, and warriors tended to copy their betters at court.

Yes, this aligns nicely with my point about _when_ mage came about.
It was in the line that immediately procedes the text you quote
above. Again it was:

"While this is quite vague it could very well be the origins of the
mage hairstyle amoung the ruling classes. Tenmu ruled in the late 7th
century."

But the exchange was also talking about _why_, or rather why not, the
mage may have come about. And I see that in a separate message you
do agree with my point (made above) that the mage is not a hairstyle
that came about for some benefit in combat.

It's nice to know I was essentially correct on both points!

--
Jay Kelly
oyakata@...


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Tom, very insightful. I particularly like the bit about loose hairs!
Cheers
Miles
--

--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 20:25:20
From: Tom Helm <junkmail@...>
To: samuraihistory@yahoogroups.com
Cc:

http://web.sfc.keio.ac.jp/~t99285mk/chousa/self/shiryou/
book_nihonkamiizenshi.html

Miles et al-
Sasama Yoshihiko Sensei's dictionary of everyday life in Japan shows
some eighty hairstyles for men, and more than double that for women. If
we are talking about the Edo period hairstyles were strictly coded for
class, rank and privaledge. Young men usually did not shave their heads
until they took the Gempuku, coming of age, even then some might have
worn a long forelock. Thus in film we see older "boys" chided for
wearing this childish haiirstyle even though they are men or nearly
men. Also not uncommon for "gay" characters to wear the same style even
though they are older.
An adult male attached to a lord would shave his forelock, a ronin or
non-conformist, might not. The many different styles mentioned above
meant that a persons class and status were instantly recognizable.
Samurai top-knots were set straight while farmers and merchants were
set to one side or the other, how the end was cut, the material used to
tie it and a dozen other things were proscribed by law.
Sasama tells us that the hair could either be worn loose or up, in a
knot when wearing Oyoroi. At the time Heian gentlemen worn eboshi, a
soft hat. Because it was soft it would fold over and these were known
as hire-eboshi, a stiff lacquered version was worn with kabuto,
wrapping the hair it was pulled thru the tehen at the top of the helmet
bowl. Being associated with the Bushi class they became known as
"Samurai Eboshi." Heian fashion, not unlike today was a very particular
world with strict rules; a few loose hairs was tantamount to farting in
someones face, so any loose hairs were plucked.
There are several theories as to the rise of Chon-mage. One has it
that shaving was more convenient than plucking for when wearing boshi
but the hairstyle remained even when the hat fell out of use. Another
says the hat fell out of use because shaving the head became popular.
There is the Nobunaga theory; he got fed up with plucking and said "Oh
just shave it!", and the Jesuit theory; the style adopted by European
monks became a nationwide fad (my favorite).The Mohawk theory; it was
considered so manly and fiercesome no warrior could do without it.
Some say that taking the time to dress the hair before battle in an age
of constant warfare was useless and wasteful, so shaved heads were the
norm for warriors ( I think this one is the strongest argument).
It all seems to have come about in the Sengoku Jidai, though it
started earlier, thats why I like the last theory, no one seems to be
saying it was specifically because of or for the wearing of helmets.

-t

PS many Sumo-tori were of Samurai class or recieved promotion to such
when very successful by the late Edo it was de rigeur...



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Jay for your useful and interesting reply, food for thought.
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On Apr 19, 2004, at 2:42 AM, Edward Alexander wrote:

> About the Semi-Shaved Heads,
> Please help me with one question.If they were cut the knot on their
> head,they would be dishonored????
>
>

Edy-
during the Edo period the topknot was integral to your cast and
position. As head of a household or as son of an important house it
would be scandalous if your hair were cut "by accident". Cutting of the
hair was symbolic of giving up secular life or life itself. I don't
believe death was mandatory though, as depicted in comics and the movie
Seppuku, I am sure a great deal would depend on circumstance...
-t

PS catching up on old posts...